In a shallow bay of the Potomac River about an hour south of Washington, D.C., lie the remains of 214 wooden cargo ships from World War I, some of which have sprouted trees and become islands.
The so-called "Ghost Fleet of Mallows Bay" is a reminder of the waste of war, but also of nature's resilience and ability to transform even a graveyard into an insurgency of life. I paddle through the ship wrecks with a guide who explains the strange history of this place.