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The Pleasures of Angel Food Cake

F_A from Ostwestfalen, Germany, CC BY 2.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

When I was a kid my mother always let me pick out what kind of cake I wanted for my birthday. From the time I was old enough to appreciate all the choices I settled on one in particular: angel food cake… with cherry frosting. We only had it once a year, but I loved it to pieces. And I told Chef Jerry Pellegrino that light spongy snow-white cake is still a favorite of mine.

Angel food cake is unique among cakes in that there is no butter, no egg yolks, no fat. In fact, it only has 6 ingredients; but you have to use exactly the right ones. They are:

1 ¾ cups granulated sugar, run through a food processor to lighten its texture; cake flour (not standard all-purpose flour, which won’t work); ¼ teaspoon salt; 1 ½ cups egg whites; 1 teaspoon cream of tartar; and 1 teaspoon vanilla flavor. No baking soda, no baking powder.

Here are the directions for making angel food cake:
1. Pulse the granulated sugar into superfine sugar. Use a food processor or blender.

2. Set 1 cup of the superfine sugar aside. You’ll add it to the egg whites.

3. Add cake flour and salt to food processor. Pulse them with the remaining sugar. This aerates the dry ingredients.

4. Beat egg whites and cream of tartar together. Beat on medium-low speed until foamy.

5. Slowly add 1 cup of superfine sugar. Turn the mixer up to medium-high and pour in the superfine sugar you set aside.

6. Beat into soft peaks. Whip the egg whites, cream of tartar, and superfine sugar into soft and lofty peaks. This takes at least 5 minutes. After that, add the vanilla.

7. Sift and fold in dry ingredients. In 3 additions, sift and fold in the dry ingredients.

8. Pour/spread batter into a tube pan. Do not grease the tube pan. Greasing the pan causes the batter to slip down the sides, preventing it from properly rising. If you already greased it, wash and wipe it completely clean.

9. Bake at 325°F (163°C). A higher temperature won’t properly cook the cake.

10. Cool upside down on a wire rack. If cooled upright, the cake’s own weight will crush itself. Cool it upside-down on a cooling rack so it holds its shape and air can reach it.

11. Run a thin knife around the edges to release. Tap the pan on the counter a few times to help loosen the cake, too.

12. Slice with a serrated knife. A regular sharp knife squishes the cake.

And here are some links to informative tutorials on angel food cake:
https://sallysbakingaddiction.com/angel-food-cake/
https://www.browneyedbaker.com/angel-food-cake/

And to serve with your Angel Food Cake:
Strawberry Jam

Ingredients:
2 pounds fresh strawberries, hulled
4 cups white sugar
¼ cup lemon juice

In a wide bowl, crush strawberries in batches until you have 4 cups of mashed berry. In a heavy bottomed saucepan, mix together the strawberries, sugar, and lemon juice. Stir over low heat until the sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to high and bring the mixture to a full rolling boil. Boil, stirring often, until the mixture reaches 220 degrees F (105 degrees C).

Transfer to hot sterile jars, leaving ¼ to ½ inch headspace, and seal. Process in a water bath. If the jam is going to be eaten right away, don't bother with processing, and just refrigerate.

Lemon Curd
Ingredients:
6 large eggs
240g or 1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
200g or 1 cup granulated sugar
zest of 6-8 lemons
113g or ½ cup butter unsalted
¼ tsp fine sea salt

Place the sugar in a medium sized pot, and over it zests the lemons.

Rub the sugar and zest together between your fingers, this helps release the oils.

Pour the lemon juice into the pot and gently stir it into the sugar.

In another bowl, crack all the eggs and add the salt. Using a fork, beat very well (try to break up as many white bits as you can).

Pour the eggs into the sugar and whisk well. Set the pot over low heat.

Cook, stirring constantly until the curd thickens and registers 170 F on an instant read thermometer (or until it coats a rubber spatula).

Slice the butter and set it in a bowl. Place a sieve over it.

Pour curd through the sieve into the butter to remove zest and any egg bits.

Stir until butter is thoroughly melted.
Pour the curd into an airtight container and store in the fridge. It should keep for about 2 weeks, longer if frozen.

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.