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The Story of Salt

Poyraz 72, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

Without doubt salt is the oldest seasoning known to man. Dating back to prehistoric times, salt has been an indispensable part of our cooking. So important has salt been that it actually was a stand-in for money. Chef Jerry Pellegrino will tell you, there is a big story here.

These days, salt comes in many different forms. Iodized table salt is the most common. The iodine was originally added to salt to help protect the thyroid gland. It is highly processed, and the grains are quite tiny. Jerry doesn’t care to use this kind of salt much in cooking because of its slightly bitter flavor. But it is good for salting pasta water.

Kosher salt is a somewhat coarser grind. It was originally used to help remove blood from kosher meat. Its large sized grains make it easier to pinch and sprinkle evenly over food.

Sea salt is harvested from dried out seabed’s where the salt has accumulated over the millennia. It often is marketed as “fleur de sel”. Sea salt is only slightly processed, and the grains can be larger. They also contain traces of various elements that contribute to the complexity of its flavor. Sea salt is excellent for finishing food, and it gives a satisfying crunch to each bite.

In addition, you’ll find exotic salts like the famous pink Himalayan, smoked salts, grey salt and black truffle salt.

Here’s some material Jerry found. To learn about the history of sale check out Mark Kurlansky’s book ‘Salt – A World History’

Here’s a great article on the types of Salt and when to use them:
https://www.gobble.com/blog/types-of-salt/

Salt is often used to cure fish and meats.

Here’s an easy salt-cured salmon recipe:
SALT CURED SALMON

2- pound fresh sashimi grade wild caught salmon
1 cup of coarse sea salt
1 cup of sugar I used light brown sugar
1 Tablespoon of crushed whole peppercorns
¼ cup of fresh dill leaves
zest of 1 lemon

In a small bowl, mix the salt, sugar, peppercorns, dill, and lemon zest to make the cure.

Use paper towels to pat dry the salmon. Remove any bones and scales on the fish if you come across them. Leave on the skin.

Line the baking sheet or a 9x13 casserole with foil paper. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on top of the foil paper.

Place ½ of the salt cure on the plastic wrap.

Lay down the salmon, skin side down, on top of the cure.

Top the salmon with the remaining salt mixture. Make sure the salt cure covers the whole filet in a thin layer. Important to not leave any area of the fish uncovered. Add on more spices of your choice (optional).

Leave the fish in the refrigerator to cure for 2 - 3 days. The fish is ready when it is firm all over.

When you press down on the fish it will feel firmer like cooked fish and also the color will have changed.

Unwrap the salmon and remove from the tray ring. Rinse off the salt cure in cold water and pat the salmon dry.

Place the salmon on a cutting board and with the sharpest knife, slice on a diagonal. Serve with some more fresh dill and lemon slices, or a creamy mustard sauce and crackers. Enjoy!

Al Spoler, well known to WYPR listeners as the wine-loving co-host of "Cellar Notes" has had a long-standing parallel interest in cooking as well. Al has said, the moment he started getting serious about Sunday night dinners was the same moment he started getting serious about wine. Over the years, he has benefited greatly from being a member of the Cork and Fork Society of Baltimore, a gentlemen's dining club that serves black tie meals cooked by the members themselves who are some of Baltimore's most accomplished amateur cooks.
Executive Chef Jerry Pellegrino of Corks restaurant is fascinated by food and wine, and the way they work in harmony on the palate. His understanding of the two goes all the way to the molecular level, drawing on his advanced education in molecular biology. His cuisine is simple and surprising, pairing unexpected ingredients together to work with Corks' extensive wine offerings.